
Midnight peanut butter noodles
The one-pot bowl you make standing up, for an audience of yourself.
At a Glance
Story
Peanut in a savory sauce is only strange if you have never left the pasta aisle. West African groundnut stews, Sichuan dan dan, satay across South East Asia all lean on it. What makes it behave in a bowl of noodles is fat meeting starchy pasta water: whisk the two and the sauce emulsifies glossy, the exact trick behind cacio e pepe.
Ingredients
- 4 oz spaghettior 1 package instant ramen, seasoning saved for another day
- 2 tbsp creamy peanut butterthe less fancy the better
- 1 tbsp unsalted butter
- 1 tbsp Parmesangrated (plus more to finish)
- 1 tsp soy sauce
- salt
Method
Nobody's finest hour and everybody's favorite, a bowl of umami and fat you make in the pot the noodles cooked in. This is portioned for one, alone and unbothered, though the chips will scale it up if you're feeling generous, which at midnight you are not.
- Bring a pot of water to a boil and salt it if you are using spaghetti. Cook the noodles to the package time.
- Before you drain, save half a cup of the cooking water, the cloudier the better. That starch is what turns fat into sauce. Drain the noodles and put them back in the pot off the heat.
- Add the peanut butter, butter, Parmesan and soy sauce. Stir hard for a solid minute, loosening with the reserved water a splash at a time, until the sauce goes glossy and clings to every strand.
- Season with salt, top with more cheese, and eat it directly from the pot if the hour calls for it. It usually does.
More to cook

A lasagna with a short fuse
The golden lasagna's wilder sister, all smoky sausage and charred poblano with a chipotle streak, cooled by a lime drizzle.

Golden lasagna
A carrot lasagna so light you could eat the lot and still fancy pudding.

Spatchcock chicken over leeks and greedy bread
One bird on a bed of leeks, and torn baguette underneath drinking up every drop.

The tomato pasta worth the airfare
Three kinds of tomato, a whisper of anchovy and enough lemon to keep it honest.

Bagna cauda for the anchovy-shy
The warm garlic and anchovy bath that quietly wins every party. Melting, not fishy, and gone before the coats are off.

Chunky chimichurri for steak night
Parsley, oregano, garlic and vinegar, chopped not blended. The steak's best friend.

Five-minute harissa yogurt
Smoky, cooling and quick. The yogurt does the calming, the harissa does the talking.

One-pot Pugliese sausage and potatoes
Peasant food that minds itself in the oven, as happy on a Tuesday as it is at a three-hour lunch.

Salsa cruda for peak tomatoes
Grated ripe tomato, garlic and basil. The less you do to it, the better it is.

Salsa verde, anchovy and all
Sharp, briny and green. The Italian one, not the tomatillo one.

Grated tomato and Calabrian chili
Grated tomato with a Calabrian kick and a lemon lift. Sauce or dip, your call.

Za'atar yogurt with sumac
Herby, tangy and green-flecked. The cooling spoon for anything off the grill.

Zhoug with a proper temper
The Yemeni green sauce that bites back. The cardamom is the tell.

Lemon pesto spaghetti, all zest and no juice
The Amalfi trick: zest steeped into the pasta water and pounded into the pesto, toasted almonds underneath, not a drop of juice anywhere.

Shrimp in a fish sauce caramel
Sugar taken to the edge of burnt, then doused with fish sauce: Vietnam's sweet-and-savoury backbone, wrapped around shrimp over jasmine rice.