
Marcella's tomato sauce, and the onion you throw away
Three things, one of which you bin. Trust her, and me.
At a Glance
Story
No soffritto, no garlic, no browning, no herbs, and somehow it eats like a Sunday that took all day. The butter is the whole conjuring trick, melting down into the tomatoes until the sauce turns improbably silky, so pay no mind to anyone who tells you to trim it back. And treat the onion as a guest rather than a component. It lends the pot its sweetness while it softens, then gets shown the door before serving, having charmed the room and eaten nothing.
Ingredients
- 1 × 28 oz can whole peeled San Marzano tomatoeswith their juices
- 5 tbsp butter
- 1 onionpeeled and halved
- salt
Method
It looks like almost nothing written down, and tastes like something you would gladly pay for in Bologna. Makes enough to dress a pound of pasta.
- Tip the tomatoes and all their juices into a saucepan. Add the butter and drop in the two onion halves, cut side down. A pinch or two of salt.
- Set it over medium heat and bring it to a simmer. Now leave it mostly alone for about 45 minutes, uncovered, giving it a stir now and then and crushing any stubborn tomatoes against the side of the pan with the back of your spoon. It will thicken and the butter will pull the whole thing into one glossy sauce.
- Fish out and discard the onion. Taste for salt, correct it, and toss with hot pasta. That is the entire recipe, and you will make it for the rest of your life.
Save the spent onion halves if you like, they are soft and sweet and rather good pushed onto toast, though nobody will judge you for binning them as directed.
More to cook

A lasagna with a short fuse
The golden lasagna's wilder sister, all smoky sausage and charred poblano with a chipotle streak, cooled by a lime drizzle.

Golden lasagna
A carrot lasagna so light you could eat the lot and still fancy pudding.

Spatchcock chicken over leeks and greedy bread
One bird on a bed of leeks, and torn baguette underneath drinking up every drop.

The tomato pasta worth the airfare
Three kinds of tomato, a whisper of anchovy and enough lemon to keep it honest.

Bagna cauda for the anchovy-shy
The warm garlic and anchovy bath that quietly wins every party. Melting, not fishy, and gone before the coats are off.

Chunky chimichurri for steak night
Parsley, oregano, garlic and vinegar, chopped not blended. The steak's best friend.

Five-minute harissa yogurt
Smoky, cooling and quick. The yogurt does the calming, the harissa does the talking.

One-pot Pugliese sausage and potatoes
Peasant food that minds itself in the oven, as happy on a Tuesday as it is at a three-hour lunch.

Salsa cruda for peak tomatoes
Grated ripe tomato, garlic and basil. The less you do to it, the better it is.

Salsa verde, anchovy and all
Sharp, briny and green. The Italian one, not the tomatillo one.

Grated tomato and Calabrian chili
Grated tomato with a Calabrian kick and a lemon lift. Sauce or dip, your call.

Za'atar yogurt with sumac
Herby, tangy and green-flecked. The cooling spoon for anything off the grill.

Zhoug with a proper temper
The Yemeni green sauce that bites back. The cardamom is the tell.

Lemon pesto spaghetti, all zest and no juice
The Amalfi trick: zest steeped into the pasta water and pounded into the pesto, toasted almonds underneath, not a drop of juice anywhere.

Shrimp in a fish sauce caramel
Sugar taken to the edge of burnt, then doused with fish sauce: Vietnam's sweet-and-savoury backbone, wrapped around shrimp over jasmine rice.